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Barbecue of a different breed

Published July 3, 2008 at 6 p.m.

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Americans always will pledge their allegiances to burnt ends and dry rubs, smoked woods and wet mops, the Carolinas or Kansas City, Memphis or the Lone Star State. Manically committed to their individual barbecue styles, the barbecue- obsessed are a quarrelsome bunch, fiercely protective and passionate about their pit-masters and always in pursuit of the next righteous rib.

But, on the other side of the tracks, there lies finger-lickin' barbecue of a different breed, namely Korean and Mongolian, which bears little to no resemblance to the regional barbecue of North Carolina or Missouri, Tennessee or Texas, but is nonetheless worth seeking out.

* Head to the House of Korean BBQ (2680 S. Havana St.) for all manner of meats and vegetables, served family style on a flat grill in an uproarious dining room or to Korea House Restaurant (10923 E. Iliff Ave.) where you can cook your meat - beef, chicken or pork - on your own grill that squats in the middle of the table.

* Denver's best Mongolian barbecue can be found at Yuan Palace Mongolian BBQ (7555 E. Arapahoe Road), where diners pick and point from a smorgasbord of vegetables, meats and sauces, which are then cooked on a flat grill by an animated staff.

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